This article is based on a handout given out at a BTCMD handling seminar I gave with Sharon Keillor in July, 2007.
Attention
One thing that top dog-handler teams have in
common is that the handler is able to get and keep the dogs attention. This
requires a combination of training and effective use of bait.
Training:
Catch and Watch are great commands to use
Bait: Know
your dog, prepare with multiple “escalation levels” of bait
Distractions: Catch your dog BEFORE you
completely loose control to distractions
Collars and Leads
Should be customized to YOUR
dog, don’t just pick a certain collar because you have one, you think it looks
nice, or someone you admire uses it. Use
what you need to control your dog.
Noose or “English” lead: Only for the best trained dogs who are not interested
in arguments. Minimal control, looks nice let down on the dog’s neck to give
the appearance of more neck length.
Martingale:
Again, only for well trained dogs with no aggressive tendencies. Good for dogs
that have problems with “itchy neck” as it can be let well down the neck when
gaiting.
Slide or classic “Resco” lead: Although used in many other Terrier breeds, this is
NOT appropriate for Bull Terriers
Nylon Collar: Gives you better control, but does not allow sharp corrections. I like
the “parachute cord” nylon which can be adjusted into the groove under the dog’s
skull where he/she can FEEL it. I actually find this better than chain collars
on some dogs that pull hard when gaiting. Nylon leads can be purchased to match
these collars, but they can be hard on your hands, so consider a less “matchy” leather or Resco fabric lead if your hands are
getting raw!
Chain collars: Always select a small link for
showing, there are three types that I consider acceptable, the curb chain,
which is a fine obedience style choke, snake link, and a very fine chain which
like the parachute cord, can be fit in that groove behind the skull.
Leads: Nylon
can be matched to collars and is easily cleaned, and is easy to find in many
sizes and variations. Leather and
Resco material leads are easiest on your hands. Use a width appropriate to the
amount of control you need to exert. I
prefer leads without snaps – they won’t come loose, and you won’t risk the snap
swinging into the dog’s eye when you’re moving.
Examination: Stacking/Free Baiting
Train your dog to accept
handling of mouth and “private” areas by many people. Train dog to accept being
placed into position and held there, although you will not be expected to do
this often in the specialty ring, all breed judges DO expect it, and it will
help if you need to adjust a “free stack” without totally throwing the dog
off. When hand stacking set up the side
facing the judge FIRST!
Free stacking can be
practiced at home by working to maneuver the dog with food and rewarding only
when it gets into position. Raise your standards as the dog gets better at
this, and work at increasing the distance between you.
These guidelines apply to
both “hand” and “free” stacking, your dog’s structure will determine how easily
it can assume these positions, especially when free stacked.
Front legs should
be placed with the toes lined up under the point of shoulder, parallel to each
other, with toes pointing straight ahead.
Rear legs
should line up with the rear pasterns perpendicular to the ground. Legs should
be parallel to one another, toes straight ahead.
Head carriage: Experiment to find the best
position – the neck should be up and arched, but angle of the head may affect
the appearance of the profile, practice in a mirror to find your dog’s best
(and worst!) angles.
Tail should
be level with the line of the back but should be the last thing you worry
about. Experiment to see if you can find something that always elicits tail up
or a wag – examples are saying a key word, having the dog step backwards,
tickling in a certain place.
Markings –
if your dog has head or back markings that affect its appearance, such as a
white spot emphasizing a back roach or head marking that spoils the smooth
profile, present the dog from the other side as much as possible (do not do
this if the judge specifically requests you not to)
Gaiting
Before you start to move with
your dog, first practice holding and walk with the lead by yourself. You should
be able to move at the proper speed (for Bull Terriers a fast walk, to show off
the “jaunty air suggesting agility and power”) keeping your wrist still.
Practice with keys on the end of your lead until you don’t hear any
jangling. Hold the lead in one hand and
practice being able to take in and let out length by folding it up in your
hand, do not wrap more than the first loop around a finger. The end of the lead
should never be dangling.
Always pay attention to the
judges instructions, if you can, pay attention to previous classes to get a
general idea of what is expected. If you
are not sure or didn’t hear properly, ASK what he/she wants you to do.
Common Patterns
A good conformation class
will have you practice all the patterns. You want the dog to be used to the
likely ways it will be asked to move in the ring and to know where to expect
the turns so you can keep collar jerks, tripping over your dog, and awkward
turns to a minimum.
Go Around –
just as it sounds. Usually it will be once around to your starting place, in a
large class the judge may request more than once around, pay attention to how
many times and where you are expected to stop.
Stopping: When you come back to the judge, try to stop about 5 feet in front so they can see your dog without stepping back. If your dog has a good front or expression, stopping with your dog facing the judge will show off these qualities. If your dog has a lovely outline or head profile, stopping with its side to the judge will present a better picture. The dog should expect to stand at attention when it stops, this needs to be practiced. Some judges will try and attract the dog’s attention and if the dog will look straight at another person in this situation it makes a great impression.
Triangle Pattern - The judge will direct you how to move around the ring, generally down to a corner, across the ring and returning on the diagonal to the judge. Left Triangles are MUCH more common than triangles to the right.
Down and Back. The judge will indicate where to take the dog, usually on a mat, but sometimes across the ring, especially when making final decisions. You will move directly away from the judge in a straight line and then return.